Sewing Knits
So I’ve tried to sew knit fabric a few times, with little success. I’ve read a lot of info suggesting that a serger is best, but that it can be done with a conventional machine. While reading the Wendy Mullins book, Home Stretch, she mentioned a foot called a walking foot. It has a top feed to keep layers of fabric together.
So I got a walking foot:

The walking foot
I tried to make the very simple t-shirt (no hems) in the Home Stretch book out of some very nice lemony yellow knit fabric. The fabric is kind of heavy and it doesn’t have a whole lot of stretch. I thought it might help to use a seemingly more stable knit.
My machine has a mock overlock stitch, which is what I used here to go around the neck hole, sleeve openings, and the bottom. I used a contrasting green thread because I thought it would be cute.
Here are some pics:

Abby wanted to help with the cutting.

Finishing the edges of the neck opening
So of all the knit projects I have tried, this has been the most successful… but there are still problems. One, because there aren’t real hems here the neck doesn’t lay quite right. This might not have been a problems with a thinner, lighter fabric.
But more troubling is that a lot of the stiches are uneven. I’m not ready to invest in a serger so I really want to make this work on a conventional machine. I’ve almost come to the conclusion that I might need to upgrade my machine. I’m using a Brother XL 5500 which has been pretty good up until now, but I think I’ve reached it’ s limitations.
This is the best pic I have of the finished shirt:

Finished shirt
Any thoughts on sewing knits using a conventional machines? If anyone knows tips or tricks, I would appreciate hearing them.
4 Comments

I wouldn’t use the overlock stitch, I would use just a straight zig-zag. And not with the walking foot! I’m surprised that that was suggested. I’ve found that with feed dogs on both the top and bottom the machine can stretch the fabric, causing the stitches to appear unevent. You might try cutting a length of tear-away stablizer or tissue paper and pinning that along the hem before sewing it too. I find that helps me to be sure that I am not stretching the fabric even the tiniest bit as I guide it through the machine.
I have a serger now, so its been a while since I did this with a sewing machine, but these are the things that I found worked for me.
Thanks for the tips hastyquilter… do you think a serger works best overall for knits?
Absolutely! I don’t have an expensive serger, It’s Juno by Janome from Hancock fabrics. I think the model number is 3434? And I got it on sale for around $230? But even an inexpensive serger does better job on knits than a straight up sewing machine.
But, I made do with a sewing machine for many years, so it can be done. Don’t feel that you need to run out and buy a serger unless you really want to.
Thanks for taking the time to lend your expertise Alyson! I really appreciate it!